Granada
 

Glimpse of Granada | Catholic wonders | Night has fallen | The Nazrid Palaces | Alhambra | Alcazaba | Generalife | Mirador de San Nicola | Albaicin views | Central Granada | Flamenco nights

Glimpse of Granada

Pedestrian street by the Capilla Real

 
Arab influence in the central Granada
Do you feel latin?
   
Time for tapas
View of the cathedral

 
There it is! The watchtower of the Alhambra
View from the counter of the Minotauro
   
My plate of house specials

As far as the eye can see, the dry brown land is dotted by perfectly ordered grids of olive trees. When the plane door opens, the Spanish stewardess is so excited by the weather that she promises herself that she will come here the following week. She asks the man who brings the escalator what the temperature is: 15 degrees, she announces to all of us standing by the door.

I make my first contact in Spanish with the taxi drivers to ask them about the bus to the city centre, and they reply in a fast tongue, giving me all sorts of comments and information. It arrives shortly after to take a whole horde of foreigners into the fine city of Granada. The driver announces the stops in the rough voice of Latin smokers, interrupting the conversations that sprung up between travellers. It is not a cliché to say how much Andalusia is a mix of the European and the Arab worlds and climate. The architecture contrasts with orange and palm trees in the centre. My first vision of the Alhambra is on paintings for sale next to the Cathedral and the Royal Chapel, as I remember photographs I have seen, and soon see plenty more images on postcards. Old women are selling branches of aromatic plants like thyme, while South Americans and Africans spread out their wares on the pavement.

In my search for accommodation, I head to the tourist information office though still taking time to stroll in this beautiful part of town. The Alcacería is a stunning market that could belong in Egypt or Turkey from its small streets, shops and architecture. I pass by the Corral del Carbón, also a clear example of Moorish constructions, dating from the fourteenth century.

Further southwest, it is more of a European high street area, near Puerta Real. The Plaza del Campillo could very well be a square of a small French town, with its tall plane trees. Having picked up a list of guesthouses and information on flamenco and opening hours, I head towards the Plaza Trinidad area the woman recommended to me. In a small street, I am stopped by a German tourist who asks me where he can get some food, as many places are closed due to a festival, he says. I reply that I have just arrived, but he seems keen to make contact. The next encounter is even stranger, as a man comes out of the guesthouse I ring at, with wild eyes, a balding forehead and a dented nose, speaking in all sorts of ways about how the place is full but there could be other places, though he is not sure which ones should be recommended. He shifts to French after asking me where I'm from, and mentions how it's better that I don't come here as there are some mad people, but the two other places he indicates should be OK. I even wonder if he actually works for the guesthouse. He tells me many places are full, but there are no festivities. The whole experience is somewhat unreal, though not too alarming still.

Before following his advice, I check out a nearby place that has 16 beds. Tired and with a painful knee, I hope that climbing to the third floor of the Pension Munoz building will lead me to a free room. After my third ring, I am happy to have waited when I see an old woman open up. She starts talking fast as all people have so far, and explains many things about her guesthouse. I'm not sure whether she said there was heating or not, but the price and temperature seem to indicate there is not. The single room she points out seems fine to me though, so I settle in.

Now in search for food, since everything else is closed in town until half past three, I walk around wondering if I will have the difficulties the German guy pointed out, and which I could not really believe. Two nearby tapas bars are packed with people talking merrily, standing around tall tables to eat while drinking beer. The food is so tempting, yet it is hard to make one's way to the counter, and I would feel ill at ease on my own in the middle of all these regulars. I move on to a delicious pastry shop, and then northeast, to plazas Nueva and Santa Ana. As I move out of the centre, I can almost feel the presence of the Alhambra, the legendary fortress that is the only remaining one from the Moorish times. And suddenly, there it is, with a tower perched on the hill, reigning over beautiful houses and trees all around.

Despite a few Spanish and foreign tourists, the city still seems very quiet. As in Bilbao, I feel all the people are hiding in places far from the main tourist path, congregating in their favourite haunts. The few main street restaurants are not typical tapas bars, and serve general food, with menus in English. But I see a sign to a tapas restaurant in a quiet side street. The Cervecería Mino is far from quiet: once again, here is a place that is packed with young Spanish groups of friends, starting their social life of the weekend around lunch and drinks. I make my way to the counter and order the house platter of hams and cheeses, and settle down to watch the life of this busy place and its guests. People are mainly eating small sandwiches and drinking beer, called caña. The chef has a brush to put olive oil on top of the buns, and is churning the orders at a frantic pace. He prepares all sorts of nibbles, while the waiters help him and serve drinks, including sangria. I am tempted to try one of his preparations, but already have so much food in front of me. Luckily, I get one with the glass of sangria I order, so I am very satisfied with my culinary experience and with having made the effort to search for a more authentic place.


All of: Spain
Glimpse of Granada | Catholic wonders | Night has fallen | The Nazrid Palaces | Alhambra | Alcazaba | Generalife | Mirador de San Nicola | Albaicin views | Central Granada | Flamenco nights

© - Extrajoce - 2000 - © All rights reserved - No copying allowed