Granada
 

Glimpse of Granada | Catholic wonders | Night has fallen | The Nazrid Palaces | Alhambra | Alcazaba | Generalife | Mirador de San Nicola | Albaicin views | Central Granada | Flamenco nights

The Nazrid Palaces

First view inside the Alhambra

 
Mosque Baths building
The Mexuar - first room of the Palacio Nazaries
   
Fine view near the oratory and the Patio del Cuarto Dorado
Patio del Cuarto Dorado

 
Patio de Comares
Group of Japanese tourists having a photo orgy
   
Light piercing beneath the wooden ceiling of the Salon del Trono

The day starts early for me, as I have decided to book the first time slot to visit the Nazrid Palaces, the most prized area of the Alhambra fortress. I hope to be able to beat the crowds and enjoy the atmosphere of the place, and to give myself all the time I want to explore the perched splendours of the only preserved Moorish citadel.

As I make my way up the hill, the peacefulness of the morning surrounds me: chirping birds, wind-blown leaves of the forest, and the gentle flow of water. Above me stand the incredibly tall towers of the various gates, starting with the Puerta de la Justicia. Still feeling weak from my virus, I recover some warmth from a lemon tea before walking down a splendid isle of sculpted trees. The beautiful light bricks of the mosque baths appear after the San Francisco gardens, and serve as an introduction to the architectural legacy that I am about to discover, after having seen a few ruins on the periphery of the Alhambra.

As I enter the Nazrid Palaces, the sophisticated yet simple designs of Islamic style appear clearly in front of me, first in the Oratory. The geometrical shapes, the tiles, the unending intertwined lines, the carved wood, the Coranic verses embedded in the walls - all enhances the architecture designed for an ideal balance between the inside and the outside, bringing in light and keeping the air cool. Across the hill lies the old quarter of the Albaicin, with exquisite white houses and churches that can be seen between the motifs of the windows.

The first small court I enter is the Patio del Cuarto Dorado, which owes its name to the golden gilding of its ceilings. The central circular fountain enhances the square design by contrast. It is still early in the morning, yet the day promises to be glorious, and the calm of this island of peace draws to silent contemplation. A narrow passage leads to the next part of the palace, the sumptuous Patio de Comares. This is certainly a highlight, the courtyard revealing an immediately appealing balance between the horizontal and vertical, water and stone, roundness and straightness. The eye follows the buildings and towers to the sky, loses itself in the still reflection of the pool, focuses to details of niches and decorative elements, to be conquered again later by the proportions of the ensemble.

The crowds of tourists gather here, as I listen to the importance of water in those times, in Islam and for the Alhambra, on my audio guide. The Japanese are en masse, yet they move in groups, allowing me to wait for a better picture, while the Europeans try to find all sorts of interesting angles to capture some of the art. Facing the fountains is the Sala de la Barca, leading to the throne room (Salon del Trono). Designed to impress guests, these rooms are richly decorated, by windows, coves, and on all walls and ceilings. It is explained that the ceiling symbolises Islamic paradise, with seven layers, and the throne of Allah in the centre. All the Japanese tourists look up, while the thin rays of light penetrate and cross the admirable wooden works.


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Glimpse of Granada | Catholic wonders | Night has fallen | The Nazrid Palaces | Alhambra | Alcazaba | Generalife | Mirador de San Nicola | Albaicin views | Central Granada | Flamenco nights

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