Beyoglu and Galata Tower
The essence of the Bosphorus
Dolmabah?e Palace in front of city skyscrapers
 
Boats passing the Maiden's Tower
City contrasts at the foot of the Bosphorus
Beylerbeyi Palace
Grilled fish in Emin?n?
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We get up in time for breakfast before speeding to the bus station, where we catch our coach to Istanbul. On board, the same rituals are performed, as the attendant comes around and sprays everyone's hands with plenty of cologne water, which I am fully prepared to avoid by now. Having arrived in the bustle of Istanbul, we get a connection to Taksim, and come back to Esin's flat by foot. Rusen continues to be a marvellous guide, as she takes me to places for shopping, and to Eminönü, where we board a cruise boat that goes along the Bosphorus up to the second bridge. This is a wonderful opportunity to view the city from a different angle, and observe the Turkish way of life, particularly the amusing children. Rusen points out the main landmarks and her more personal preferences, as the city's unmistakable character emerges all around us. Back in town, we grab a fresh fish sandwich - a tradition it seems - and walk back along the Galata Bridge, eventually stopping to savour an apple tea. There is hardly a custom I have not had the chance to experience! To top it all, we make our way up the Galata hill, which was the European neighbourhood in the times of the sultans. Around the bend, we stumble upon the Galata Tower, standing strong and even more impressive from the ground. A convenient lift takes us to the restaurant on the last floor, from where we reach a viewing platform. Our eyes are stunned by the bright light shining on the Golden Horn, yet quickly adjust to distinguish the elegant silhouettes of the city's landmarks. As the wind blows the city's essence and bustle in all our senses, we move to catch more splendid impressions: Sultanahmet and the Galata Bridge at rush hour, the constant activity of the boats towards the Bosphorus and the sea of roofs and minarets. It is now time to live the city from within, as we meet up with various friends of Rusen in the shady garden of a café (Mihrimah Sultan). Around us, students smoke nargile (water-pipe) and talk in small groups, while our own conversation is punctuated by the irregular fall of ripe figs. More friends join us later in the evening, and we eventually go a restaurant held by former colleagues of Figen, one of Rusen's closest friends (Feslegen). Their hospitality is as remarkable as the food, and there are yet a few more new dishes for me to taste. As the night seems to end, Rusen talks to her friends while I have a snooze back in a flat until our host Esin catches us to return home. Alas, our last day in the city has come, so we spend it in along the tradition now set for Rusen: a breakfast along the Bosphorus with her closest friends. Though I have already tried these dishes, the quality is remarkable, and we all enjoy this privileged time. It feels like we are by the sea, as a marina is around the corner, the boats pass by, and the warmth of the sun is matched by the shade of tall trees. Esin looks into my coffee cup - I hope she sees in my future that I will return to Turkey.
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Istanbul 